LITTLE ITALY — County Barbecue, that Taylor Street building covered in plaid, opens Thursday with no shortage of meat and bacon on the menu.
The checkered building takes up where the old Gennaro’s Italian restaurant left off at 1352 W. Taylor St.
But that’s where the Italian connection ends.
“We’re not interested in doing another Italian place in Little Italy,” DMK restaurant group owner David Morton said.
And with the amount of smoked meat on County Barbecue’s menu, there’s little room for pasta.
The concept is supposed to be like a trip for your mouth to America’s great barbecue places, Morton said. So dishes have names like St. Louis Spare Ribs (Half slab, $12), Texas Brisket ($9) or Kansas City Burnt Ends, those choice crispy charred brisket pieces.
A description under the “bacon bar” reads “limited availability and sporadic, like all good things in life.” Here you’ll find BLT sliders, Bacon-deviled eggs and, if you’d rather not mess around, a piece of maple-brushed, slow-cooked smoked bacon.
About 40 people can pack into the intimate restaurant, with another 50 seats outside.
The restaurant’s original bar was restored, in addition to keeping some of the original light fixtures, Morton said.
“A lot of it is being kind of mindful and respectful of the fact that this place has a lot of emotional connection for people who have been here a long time,” he said of County. “We think it’s a great fit for the neighborhood.”