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Just Opened Boeufhaus Tells You to 'Be Carnivorous, Enjoy Yourself'

By Alisa Hauser | April 13, 2015 11:03am | Updated on April 13, 2015 11:04am

HUMBOLDT PARK — A German and French bistro along the border of Ukrainian Village and Humboldt Park that has been over two years in the making has quietly celebrated its first weekend in business.

Aiming to "satisfy varied cultural appetites by using contemporary culinary techniques, sustainably- and responsibly-raised animals, and artisanal house-made products in our seasonally evolving menu," according to its menu, Boeufhaus opened Thursday at 1012 N. Western Ave.

The menu also tells diners that "most importantly," that Boeufhaus seeks to "give you a continuously indulgent experience. Enjoy yourself. Be carnivorous."

Combining the French word for beef and the German word for house in name, Boeufhaus replaced Mitch's and Janina Delicatessen. Its neighbors include Vertical Gallery, Empty Bottle, Leghorn Chicken, Sportsman Club, The Lockdown and Rosie's West Town Deli, all within a block.

Owned by Chef Brian Ahern, formerly with Fishbar Chicago and Jamie Finnegan, the Beoufhaus has brought at least 30 new jobs to the area, the majority of which are in the back of the house, preparing in-house pastas and "cooking sauces for days," said bar manager Spenser Thompson.

The Boeufhaus menu, which rotates seasonally, is divided into starters, appetizers, beef or "boeuf," entrees and sides.

Beef offerings include a 55-day dry-aged rib eye ($60); a 35-day dry-aged rib eye ($57), both 22 ounces; a 16-ounce New York Strip ($44); a 10-ounce filet mignon ($54) and steak frites ($26).

Steak lovers can choose to enjoy their beef as a pepper steak (au poivre); topped with bordelaise (a red wine and butter sauce) or bearnaise (a sauce similar to hollandaise).

Starters include shortrib beignets ($9).; a fried onion stuffed with chicken liver mousse ($9); pastrami croquettes ($7); salad ($6); and fleischschnacka, or pork sausage ($8).

Alisa Hauser chats about the new place:

Shortrib beignets (DNAinfo/Alisa Hauser)

Fleischschnacka, or pork sausage (DNAinfo/Alisa Hauser)

Non beef entrees — ranging between 27-$46 — include seared halibut, "pork duo" made with roasted loin and shoulder confit, duck breast, and veal loin.

Appetizers — ranging between $9 and $16 — include polenta, citrus salmon, beef tartare, bean cavatelli, stracciatella and French onion soup.

Sides include cauliflower gratin ($11), roasted mushroom ($12), spring vegetable ($7 each or 3 for $18) boeuf fat fries with sea salt and malt vinegar aioli and spaetzle.

Rye spaetzle made with caraway noodle, brown butter, herbs (DNAinfo/Alisa Hauser)

Drinks, selected by beverage manager Nathan Adams, owner of Red & White Wine Shop, 1861 N. Milwaukee Ave., include several wines and craft beers.

When asked about the unusually steep prices on the menu, Spencer said that Boeufhaus aims to be a destination spot that will "fill a niche for people that don't want to go Downtown for great food."

Ahern, who was tied up in the kitchen during the restaurant's first Saturday night — and a packed one, with nearly all 50 seats at tables and the bar filled — was not immediately available, though Ahern's LinkedIn profile offers further details.

"After years of toil in some of the country's best kitchens under some of the world's most demanding chefs, I have ventured out on my own. With an artist's eye for detail and an unrelenting work ethic in conjunction with a comprehensive understanding of the restaurant business, my dream is quickly becoming a reality. My strong leadership skills and unwavering belief in the idea of TEAM allow me to create a work environment centered on accountability and character," Ahern wrote.

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