ALBANY PARK — A new generation has taken over the reins at Angelo's Pizza and the changing of the guard has resulted in a major shift in direction for the neighborhood joint.
A fixture along Montrose Avenue since the 1960s, the former pick-up and delivery pizza parlor has been completely renovated inside and out, morphing into Angelo's Wine Bar, a full-service restaurant serving "refined rustic" Italian fare for dinner and weekend brunch.
"I told my dad, we've got to change with the neighborhood," said Ramez Fakhoury, a member of the family that's owned Angelo's, 3026 W. Montrose Ave., since 1983.
"Literally, a block up the street there's going to be the first million-dollar home on Whipple," he said.
For the past six or seven years, Fakhoury has kept the concept for a wine bar in the back of his mind.
"When I saw heavy investment finally spilling over to this side of the river," the time was ripe to the pull the trigger, he said.
With that in mind, Fakhoury scooped up the storefront adjacent to Angelo's and hired Slick+Design to transform the expanded space.
Walls have been covered in reclaimed barn wood, except for the bar front, which is wrapped in oak planks salvaged from Guinness barrels. Bar stools, chairs and banquettes are upholstered in varying shades of brown, adding to the earthy feel.
Widescreen TVs in the dining area — which seats 80 — run classic black-and-white Italian films; sets in the bar broadcast sports.
Floor-to-ceiling glass windows facing Montrose and Whipple fold accordion-style for open-air dining.
A custom-designed beer tap system pours craft and Italian brews chosen by Angelo's mixologist Scott McIntosh.
With "wine bar" now part of Angelo's name, Fakhoury knew he had to deliver on the vino side. So he brought in pal Lance Gresak, formerly of III Forks, to develop the wine program and act as operations manager.
Gresak said he built his list around wines from Italy and surrounding countries, with approximately two-thirds of the nearly 90 offerings coming from the Old World and the remainder from California, Australia, South American and South Africa.
Because a "sommelier is only as good as the people on the floor," Grezak had staff taste every wine before Angelo's opened in order to familiarize servers with appropriate recommendations for food-wine pairings.
Clint Walt, a veteran of Deleece, is overseeing Angelo's kitchen and crafted the menu, which Fakhoury described as "more gourmet."
Yes, there are still pizzas, but the only holdovers from Angelo's previous incarnation are the Manzo Italiano and The Angelo's. New additions include fennel and grape, burrata margherita and the "carne trio," featuring soprasetta, prosciutto and capicola.
Pastas — like a sweet corn alfredo and smoked tomato risotto — and shared plates round out the menu.
With several weeks as the new Angelo's under his belt, Fakhoury is preparing to roll out new features to attract diners outside the immediate area and encourage repeat business from neighbors.
"Case of the Mondays" will be a weekly wine tasting event, 7-9 p.m. For $20, patrons can partake in unlimited samplings of proffered wines and appetizers.
Later in August look for the first in a series of whiskey tastings, as well as the debut of live music on Wednesday nights.
For those who miss the old Angelo's, don't worry, it still exists. Sort of.
The former menu is available for pick up and delivery only.
Said Fakhoury, "You don't want to let go of your bread and butter."
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