LINCOLN SQUARE — Sometimes, it's easier to have a baby than open a business — at least that's been the case for Darren McGraw.
McGraw says he's still a minimum of five or six months away from opening Ampersand Wine Bar, which he first announced back in February.
Since last winter, he's become a father, celebrated another birthday and switched locations and concepts for Ampersand.
He presented his revised proposal to a new group of community members at meeting Wednesday night, held in what he hopes will become Ampersand's home at 4845 N. Damen Ave., a ground-floor commercial storefront with condos above.
With the shop still lacking electricity, attendees lit up their cellphones to illuminate the space while McGraw described his vision and fielded questions.
He initially intended to open Ampersand on Lawrence Avenue but negotiations on a lease fell through, sending him back to square one, he said as he outlined the project's history.
"The frustrating part of the other space was a blessing in disguise," he said.
The Damen storefront is new construction and more adaptable to his needs, allowing him to shift his focus to serving food as much as wine, said McGraw.
"It's dining at a bar," he said, with an emphasis on "rustic, wine-country fare."
As before, McGraw plans to offer 25 to 30 wines by the glass, at an average price of $6 to $12.
To keep prices low, he's working with wine purveyors who are former sommeliers at Charlie Trotter's, where McGraw previously worked as a pastry chef.
"They gave me a whole volume of wines that are off the radar," he said.
The majority of neighbors liked what they heard.
Melaina Prest is a member of the condo association that occupies the residential portion of Ampersand's development.
"We're very excited. We see Darren as an asset to the neighborhood and the building. He's filling a void," said Prest, who explained that the association had held a separate meeting with McGraw, in part to negotiate hours of operation.
"We can't wait for this place," said Jennifer Seaman, who lives with her husband on neighboring Winchester. "I'm excited about the chance to have a nice chill hangout place."
The most vocal opposition came from residents who live directly across the street from Ampersand's proposed address and have gone door-to-door with a petition calling for no new bars on Damen.
A representative from this group spoke at the meeting, expressing concerns about noise and parking, as well as Ampersand's close proximity to Gio's Bar and Grill at 4857 N. Damen Ave.
"How many bars does one block need?" questioned the resident, who declined to give her name. "It's a quiet residential street."
McGraw offered assurances that Ampersand was "not Cubby Bear."
His goal, rather, is to bring the "same ambiance and level of service to a neighborhood place" as he's provided during his career working in high-end restaurants and hotels, he said.
Feedback for and against Ampersand will be collected over the next two weeks and presented to the Liquor Commission, which will make the ultimate decision on whether to grant the wine bar a liquor license, said Jim Poole, chief of staff for Ald. Ameya Pawar (47th).
McGraw, for his part, is crossing his fingers that the second time's the charm for Ampersand.
"I always knew it was a good idea," he said.
