Bittersweet Departure For Chef-Owner Opens Doors For New Operators

CENTRAL LAKEVIEW — They say change is bittersweet, and at this Belmont Avenue bakery, that couldn't be more true.

Under the careful eye of owner Judy Contino, Bittersweet Pastry Shop and Cafe became a Lakeview staple over its 23 years at 1114 W. Belmont Ave. But with Contino ready to step down, two of her mentees are taking the helm.

Over the past six months, Contino's niece, Esther Griego, and Bittersweet pastry chef Mindy Gohr have been gradually taking over daily operations at Bittersweet and will co-own the bakery soon.

Contino is "still here. She's definitely our creative guide and will always be a part of the bakery," Griego said.

Contino has a rich history in the city, which declared Tuesday to be Chef Judy Contino Day. She'll also be inducted into the Chicago Culinary Museum and Chefs Hall of Fame on Thursday, putting a cap on a year of accolades.

After stints at Ambria and Lettuce Entertain You, Contino opened Bittersweet in 1992, the same year she was named Woman Pastry Chef of the Year.

This year, Contino was a James Beard Outstanding Baker semi-finalist — the first year the category was introduced — placing Bittersweet among the top 25 bakeries in the country.

"Bittersweet was the first of its kind when it opened. Now there's all kinds of bakeries, but the quality and range of product we have here is pretty unbeatable," Griego said of the European style pastry shop.

In addition to its 12 cake flavors like almond strawberry brulee or vanilla peanut butter and jelly, Bittersweet makes pies that fly off the shelves at Thanksgiving, fresh bread and a display case stuffed with pastries.

Daily soups and sandwiches are a big draw for regular customers, and the new managers said they plan to expand what's offered while still keeping classic favorites.

"This has been an institution in the Lakeview neighborhood, a place where people meet for coffee or get excellent birthday cakes. We really strive to make everyone feel like they're at home here," Griego said.

Gohr, who began her career at Bittersweet 10 years ago, will head the kitchen, while Griego said her specialty lies in marketing and managing. She plans to install a point-of-sale system and finalizing a partnership with UberEATS that "opens us up to a new demographic."

Gohr wants to expand Bittersweet's seasonal offerings, but knows "people come here because they're comfortable, they know the product. So we want to continue to offer those things."

She said it still feels "surreal" to be in charge, particularly when some staff members have been at Bittersweet for more than a decade.

"It's a strange sensation, but I think Judy has been preparing me for it, whether I knew it or not, for quite awhile," Gohr said.

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