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$325 New Balance Running Shoes Feature Leather From Chicago's Last Tannery

By Justin Breen | October 14, 2014 5:48am
 The New Balance 2040v2 shoes, which retail for about $350, are made with leather from Chicago-based Horween Leather Co.
New Balance 2040v2
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BUCKTOWN — Chicago's last tannery plays a major role in one of the world's most expensive running shoes.

Bucktown-based Horween Leather Co. supplies the leather for the New Balance 2040v2, which retail for about $325 — the most pricey available running sneakers at Zappos, Eastbay and other online retailers. Gray and navy blue versions debuted in February, and there are plans to release black 2040v2s in November.

"It’s a really unique project," said Horween Vice President Nick Horween, of Lakeview. "It’s a very complicated shoe to make from the leather forward. They came to us and wanted to do a premium American-made thing. We’re always excited to work with people on higher-end stuff."

Avid runner Justin Breen analyzes the shoes:

Horween, 2105 N. Elston Ave., was founded in 1905 and has supplied leather for NFL footballs, purses, wallets and many other products. The fifth-generation, family-run company (Arnold Horween was an NFL player and coach who got the football contract in the 1940s) processes about 4,000 cowhides and 1,000 horsehides a week.

Each pair of 2040v2 shoes uses three square feet of leather from Horween Leather, which sends hides to New Balance.

New Balance Senior Product Manager Eric Vassall said the goal of the 2040v2 was to create a premium shoe from all-American-made products.

"We just began working with Horween Leather this year, but so far the relationship has been great and we look forward to collaborating with them in the future," Vassall said. "We decided to use Horween leather because of the rich heritage they have as a tannery here in the U.S. Horween Leather Co. is over 100 years old and uses traditional artisanal skill along with innovative new techniques."

Vassall would not reveal how many of the 2040v2 shoes were produced but noted it was a "fairly large launch for us as a company."

Vassall said the shoes weigh 15.2 ounces, a bit heavier than kicks like the Nike AirZoom Elite 7 (9.6 ounces) and Hoka One One Huaka (8.9 ounces).

Horween said the 2040v2s have a longer shelf life than other running shoes. And they can be worn any part of the day.

"It's more of a fashion sneaker," Horween said. "I'm something you can wear that's casual and comfortable. You don't need to run in them or beat them up, but you could if you want to. But if you want to go on a casual walk, this is something you would wear as well."

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