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Kokopelli Taqueria Brings Octopus, Shrimp Tacos, Ceviche to Wicker Park

By Alisa Hauser | August 14, 2014 9:49am
 A Tijuana-based food truck and stand is expanding into Chicago, at 1324 N. Milwaukee Ave. in Wicker Park.
Kokopelli in Tijuana and Wicker Park
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WICKER PARK — A Chicago version of a Tijuana-based food truck and taco stand named after the Hopi god of fertility will bring grilled octopus tacos, tortas and ceviche to the recently shuttered Between Lounge in Wicker Park.

In a conversation last week, owner Gerardo Santiago said Kokopelli  — which has been dubbed "Crackopelli" by its fans — called the concept planned for 1324 N. Milwaukee Ave. "a different twist."

Scheduled to be open in mid-September, Kokopelli will offer seafood and vegetarian tacos as well as Mexican beers and custom cocktails, according to a news release.

The tacos will be paired with four homemade salsas using a Yucatan-style marinade.

A spokeswoman for Kokopelli said that the menu was still being finalized but taco highlights include "The Chicano," a grilled octopus taco marinated with paprika, garlic, olive oil, Mayan condiments and cactus.

Another taco, "The Kraken," features octopus marinated in Mexican pesto with freshly sliced avocado and cheese, wrapped up in a lightly toasted tortilla.

A sales representative for Tampico Beverage's International Division, Santiago currently lives in Elmhurst, but lived in the Wicker Park area for five years before moving to the suburbs.

Santiago said it was a business trip last year to Tijuana where he ate tacos at Kokopelli that inspired him to partner with the food trucks' owner, Chef Guillermo "Oso" Campos Moreno, his brother Pablo Campos and Orlando "Cricket" Miguel del Monte

Moreno worked as the executive chef at Parque Bicentario in Guanajuato, and spent time at the three time Michelin-starred Oud Sluis in the Netherlands before returning to Tijuana.

Santiago said that Kokopelli has been dubbed “Crackopelli” by local followers.

To build anticipation for the eatery, which will be able to seat up to 90 people, the windows of the former lounge were papered over a few weeks ago with images of the dancing Native American deity "Kokopelli" and the hashtag #1324MKE.

Usually depicted with a curved, hunched back and playing a flute, Kokopelli is a Native American deity that is "known as a fertility god, prankster, healer and story teller," according to an Indigeneous People website.

Kokopelli Chicago, 1324 N. Milwaukee Ave. Hours are 4:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily. Ph: 773-698-7670.