Finding Common Trends at Natori and Douglas Hannant Shows
By Patrick Michael Hughes on February 14, 2013 9:09am
HELL'S KITCHEN — Street Chic explored two lovely collections by established fashion industry brands — Douglas Hannant and Natori — and was happy to note downtown edginess incorporated into these posh and lady-like brands.
Hannant's morning show at the DiMenna Center for Classical Music, which was accompanied by classical pianist David Aladashvili, featured 35 looks in a stunning array of colors, from midnight blue leather, rose, royal purple and cobalt, using a luxury line-up of fabrics including georgette, wool crape, velvet, Charmeuse, sheared mink and ostrich.
The classic tailored looks featured the head-to-toe chic expected from clothing of this caliber — high arm holes, molded fitted jackets belted with box pleated peplum details, princess seams, gathered wide funnel-neck tunics with cigarette pants, a diaphanous long-sleeve bow blouse, three-quarter length sleeves and a lovely display of gowns suited for a full docket of social occasions.
All of the looks were complemented with models' hairstyles reminiscent of Diana Vreeland’s iconic bob, sheer black hosiery, stilettos and elbow-length leather gloves.
However, what Street Chic was taken with was Hannant’s eye for pattern and finish.
A very fresh and unique take on dots and slub-finished textiles was quite eye-catching. His midnight blue and black-white woven splatter Glen plaid dress, and jacket in the same fabric paired with a leather skirt, confirmed two trends Street Chic has been tracking — the pre fall menswear looks featuring plaid and tartan, as well as the dot trend seen in Degen and Katie Gallagher’s collections this season.
Street Chic also took was taken with the fearless corseted looks in the collection, shapes akin to the looks spotted in The Blonds collection the previous evening.
Natori’s afternoon presentation at EZ Studios both on W. 37th Street was done in her typically gracious manner with a reception showcasing 20 looks. The Natori look always adheres to a classic Asian themes. This season’s collection evoked the early 20th century, and was full of superbly-crafted clothing, exquisite jewel-tone color and beautiful textiles.
Marcel Waves, retro make-up, and long gloves, evoked images of seductive glamour of another era.
The use of embroidered decoration — gold dragons, jewel tone vine flora, embellished lace and a wonderful selection of wide-open weave obi tie belts — enhanced figure-flattering skirts, dresses and narrow-pant looks. There was a beautiful array of draped jackets paired with draped-neckline blouses. Street Chic was very taken with the very balanced use of matte and shine throughout the collection.
Street Chic also noticed another trend in both Hannant's and Natori’s collections — the use of what we are calling "liquid." Hannant showed fluid silver black and cobalt black Laurex draped gowns, and Natori used beautiful muted gold "liquid"-like textiles in wonderfully draped jackets.