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Backward Coat and Tailored Menswear Fill Duckie Brown Fashion Week Show

By Patrick Michael Hughes | February 8, 2013 8:54am

MANHATTAN — A deftly styled menswear collection with a keen eye toward tailored looks, a fresh take on street-inspired layers, and a very savvy mix of fabrics filled the runway at The Duckie Brown runway for the first day of New York Fashion Week.

Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver's show at the Industria Superstudio in the West Village featured a fashion forward very tailored outerwear piece described as "the backward coat" — a clean, minimalist silhouette with covered button placket down the center back and a turned up, reversed collar.

The look certainly made an impact and also enhanced the 21-look collection's strong focus on proportion, color, volume and layers.

Standouts included double-breasted coats with blocks of color, a knee-length camel duffel wool with pink Harris Tweed stripe and a black wool coat worn with a navy blue herringbone tweed overcoat.

The theme of mixing fabrics and colors in tailored pieces was deftly carried through the collection, as a black wool trouser with burgundy inverted cuffs and a black wool trouser with a red and gray herringbone Harris tweed cuff set off the trend.

 Wotjack in black wool full length back crombie coat.
Wotjack in black wool full length back crombie coat.
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DNAinfo/ Patrick Michael Hughes

The street-savvy, attention-grabbing moment for Street Chic was the collection's liberal use of proportion, highlighting the jacket-layering trend.

Striking ensembles featured items such as a black glazed baseball jacket worn over a black invisible collar coat and a black bomber worn over a grey herringbone Harris Tweed double-breasted knee length coat. The pairing of these looks with brightly colored inverted cuff trousers and colorful Duckie Brown Florsheim shoes in rich tones of burgundy and cobalt blue added to a very pleasing color palate. 

The layers in the collection also included a wide array of fabric weights for a fully fashioned fall wardrobe, seen in, for example, a dark Japanese denim jean jacket worn with a black wool long sweatshirt.

Street Chic also liked the green nylon tracksuit jacket with a turquoise wool armor overlay worn with a burgundy narrow trouser.

Street Chic enjoyed the wonderful 12 minutes of silence during the latter half of the collection, during which the attendees were riveted on the clothes, after which a burst of cheers broke out as the models made their final walk through, as well as designers Cox and Silver.