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Food & Drink

Last Call for Underbar as Another Late-Night Bar Bites the Dust

December 5, 2014 8:32am | Updated December 8, 2014 10:56am
Chicago will lose another of its dwindling late-night bars when Underbar closes Dec. 13.
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ROSCOE VILLAGE — Chicagoans who want to grab a drink after 2 a.m. will have one less option come Dec. 13.

Underbar, 3243 N. Western Ave., announced it's closing its doors after a 10-year run, a belated casualty of the Great Recession and a changing bar culture.

"I found out Monday," said manager Laurel Tiknis, who's been on staff at at the 4 a.m. bar from the beginning.

Underbar had been up for sale for the past year as owners — who also count Green Eye Lounge, Lemming's Tavern and Blind Robin among their holdings — looked to get out of the late-night business, according to Steve Kopka, a member of the partnership group.

"The partners have all kind of moved on ... one has grandchildren," Kopka said.

With no legitimate buyer on the horizon and Underbar's liquor license up for renewal Dec. 14, to the tune of $11,000, the decision was made to pull the plug, he said.

News of the closing became public earlier in the week and "Where will we go now?" has been the most common response from customers, said Tiknis, a one-time contender for Chicago's best bartender.

"You can say nothing good happens after midnight," but late-night bars serve a purpose, she said, with Underbar earning a reputation as the haunt of choice for the city's waiters, cooks and even the emergency vet down the block.

For people who don't work standard hours, Underbar offered a place where they could unwind, relax and have someone serve them for a change, Kopka said.

"Why should only people who work 9-to-5 have that?" he asked.

Catering to service industry employees kept Underbar flush in its early years but then restaurant staffers — especially at white-tablecloth restaurants — were hit hard by the economic downturn, according to Kopka.

"People who used to come into Underbar and run up a $50 tab a couple of times a week were down to once a month," he said.

Tiknis said a shift in Chicago's bar culture also contributed to Underbar's demise, with the corner tavern giving way to gastro-pubs.

"People don't want to go out and talk to the person next to them. They're on their smartphone or they want Skeeball, a deejay and a whole experience," she said.

"I would have people come in and ask, 'What's your signature drink?' At Underbar? A beer and a shot," she said.

Business has bounced back a bit in recent months, but not enough to dissuade owners from selling, Kopka said.

"It's sad. It is such a unique place, such a fantastic staff," he said. "It feels like the end of an era and we'll all be raising our glass together."

Though no grand farewell is being planned, Kopka said said of Underbar's remaining days, "Every night is a party 'til 4 a.m."

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