By Patrick Hedlund
DNAinfo News Editor
LOWER EAST SIDE — Talk about the catch of the day.
Lower East Side institution Russ and Daughters — which has been serving neighborhood favorites like lox and herring out of its iconic storefront on East Houston Street for nearly a century — unveiled its $52 a pound, double-smoked Danish salmon Thursday for fish-o-philes to feast on.
The specialty item — imported from a small, artisanal smokehouse on the Danish island of Bornholm — features a rich, smoky flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture not typical of the store's other salmon varieties.
"If you get a case of wine, not every bottle's going to taste the same," said Russ and Daughters co-owner Josh Russ Tupper, 36, who represents the fourth generation of family members to run the shop.
"This type of salmon — no one does it in the states, which is why it's so unique."
But rarity commands a premium, as the fish clocks in at about $52 per pound, a good $20 more, on average, than the shop's more traditional salmon offerings.
Russ Tupper, a former semiconductor engineer who quit his job to take over the store with his cousin about five years ago, explained that the shop gets its supply from Denmark because large smokehouses like the one they work with are not allowed to operate in the city.
Years ago, a customer who traveled to Denmark helped connect Russ and Daughters with the similarly family-run supplier, and since then store employees have personally traveled to JFK airport to pick up their catch.
"It doesn't come with two big Danish men guarding it," Russ Tupper joked, noting that the store brought in about 200 pounds of the fish.
More astute lox lovers will notice the Danish catch's signature champagne hue — a result of this particular salmon feeding on herring — setting it apart from some of the more common cuts on display at the shop.
"I love salmon, and I wanted to try something different," said Danielle Michaan, 28, who heard about the new arrival Wednesday, thanks to store's active blog and regularly updated Twitter feed.
"I'm a snob when it comes to that — I like good food," said the West Villager, who planned to share her take with a friend at lunch. "I made it a point to get over here."
The seasonal salmon is always in high demand from foodies eager for a taste, and Russ Tupper said the popular item usually sold out in a couple months.
"There are people that want to be notified when this comes in," he said. "They always ask, 'Is the Danish in yet?'"
While Russ Tupper personally prefers the fish served unaccompanied, the shop recommends eating it with a dash of simple black pepper.
But regardless of style or preparation method, no one left Russ and Daughters unsatisfied with their experience, he said.
"The greatest thing for me is the interaction with the customers," Russ Tupper explained. "To see the smiles you put on their faces with the food — it's a more personal connection."
